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Rai (Raj)
The palace in the past

"Do you know where am I rigth now? In Paradise!"

I think there is only one place in Ukraine to which this phrase could be applied with no reservations. There is a place in the vicinity of the town of Berezhany (3,75 km southwest) which is actually called Rai (Raj in Polish, which translated as Paradise).

Rai-Paradise is a place which is situated within walking distance from Berezhany. Berezhany (Brzezany in Polish) is a regional centre in Ternopil Oblast (Western Ukraine).

Yes, now it's not the same like in old days. But one can find here some stealing beauty of the great Past.

Adam, Eve and Paradise

There are several legends that are associated with Rai. The most popular one of them was described many decades ago in the book La Pologne (published by Chodzko in Paris). The legend says that in the times of old, the palace and the land there were owned by Adam Sieniawski; his wife was fittingly named Eva. And once, taking a walk in the stunningly beautiful park, she exclaimed, "This place is a paradise on earth! It must be called Rai!"

Adam thought it was a good idea and the park, the palace and a little peasant settlement nearby were declared to be Ral-Paradise.
Historians do not accept this legend as being quite true in the sense that Sieniawski did not have a wife whose name was Eva - but couldn't he have given his wife a pet name? Being an Adam, it would be all but justified to have a wife called Eve. And the park with its ponds that sits at the foot of Mount Volchya, and the scenery around are so breathtakingiy beautiful that anyone who sees the place on the first time is necessarily tempted to call it "paradise".
 The somber-minded historians say that originally the palace was a sort of a hunting lodge which looked more like a castle. The palace belonged to the family of Polish aristocrats, the Sieniawskis. In May 1707, the Russian Tsar Peter I and the Ukrainian Hetman Mazepa paid a royal visit to the palace. Peter was said to have been greatly impressed with the magnificence of the palace and the beauty of the park.
In particular, he liked the oid tapestry, the most refined Chinese china, and a gallery of excellent portrait paintings. In the hall of the palace designed for balls and dances, the tsar admired the sumptuousness of the place which was decorated, among other things, with ostrich eggs suspend from the ceiling on long red-plush cords, and entwined in gold threads. As it turned out the visit to of the tsar and of the hetman to the place which was much admired by both, ended in a near disaster for them - groups of armed Ukrainians who suspected that a Russian-Polish alliance was in the making, surrounded the palace and actually besieged it. Adam-Mykoia Seniawski was said to have taken the tsar and the hetman to the safety of his castle in Berezhany using an underground passage that connected the palace to the castle.

When Ukraine was invaded by the troops of the Swedish King Charles XII in 1709, the palace was badly damaged.

The palace was later torn down by Adam Smigielski. In 1818, when Princess Lubomirska’s estate was being divided, the palace was so run down that the family went to Brzezany to dine. The Czartoryskis inherited the estate from the Sieniawskis, followed by the Denhoffs, Lubomirskis, and finally Aleksander Potocki (son of Stanislaw, the Minister of Education) followed by Stanislaw (who died 12 December 1887). The Potockis restored palace and the park, planting all kinds of exotic plants there. When the owners were off the premises, visitors were allowed to walk around the park and enjoy the scenery complete with white swans in the ponds.

Now the children sanatorium is situated in the rebuilted during Soviet years palace.

There used to grow a great oak in the park which was said to have seen the great Ukrainian Hetman Bohdan Khmelnitsky resting in its shade in 1640. The great tree died only several years ago thus robbing the park of one of its major attractions.

 

An article from Polish Slownik Geograficzny, 1888

Rai (Raj), a village in Brzezany county, 3.75 km. southwest of Brzezany. It is bordered on the east by Brzezany; on the south by Olchowiec and Nadorozniow, on the west by forests belonging to the estates of Brzezany and Kurzany; and on the north by Lesniki and Brzezany. The manorial and peasant lands belong to the gmina [district] of Nadorozniów. In 1880 there were 461 inhabitants in the district, 131 on the manor grounds. (...) The major estate belongs to the Brzezany estate and is the property of Count Stanislaw Potocki. (...)

There is also a palace, the owner’s residence. During the times of the Sieniawskis and Czartoryskis, it was a small palace for hunting, square in shape with four towers on the corners. Later the inside was built up even with towers. Princess Elzbieta Lubomirska, of the Czartoryski princely family, the widow of Marshal Stanislaw Lubomirski, moved there from Brzezany.

The palace stands in the middle of a splendid park through the center of which a stream flows, creating artificial ponds. Little bridges over these ponds connect the palace garden with the natural park. From the palace windows there is an enchanting view of the park’s ravines and ponds and, farther off, the hilly surroundings, as well as of distant Brzezany and the Bernardine monastery on a high and steep mountain, where it was built by Mikolaj Hieronim Sieniawski, the voivode of Ruthenia, in 1673. The park, which covers an area of 30 mórgs, is planted with fir trees, chestnuts, plane-trees, and spreading ash trees, and consists of two uneven parts. In the southern part, which slopes upward toward the south, the rotten and wasted trees were felled in 1879 and an orchard of fruit trees was created. The ponds are fed by the source of the Rajowka, which springs forth in the park and flows into the Lipa near Brzezany. Formerly there were dikes, but today only boulders remain. The park is somewhat neglected; in the greenhouses are very old orange trees, lemon trees and camellia, which were imported by Count Aleksander Potocki.

On two sides the park borders on the village, whose inhabitants, at one time obligated to do compulsory labor in the gardens (there was no manorial farmstead), are mostly gardeners. On the third side it borders on farm buildings and a cropped French garden, today utterly neglected. Beyond it stretches a vegetable garden covering several mórgs. On the fourth side (the south) is a sizable forest of beeches. Near the park stands a small [Orthodox or Greek Catholic] church of stone, remodeled in 1878 from a forge.

The palace is a tall, square two-story building crowned with a circular gloriette. Count Aleksander Potocki built it before 1830. On the ground floor from a beautiful vestibule there are stairs leading to the second floor, as well as the doors to the chapel and the billiards hall; a number of old portraits hang there. The chapel has beautiful Renaissance-style alabaster door-frames, and in the vaulting there is a similar alabaster altar chiselled by Leonard Marconi (circa 1879). In the billiards hall, which also serves as a dining room, hang four paintings depicting Jerzy Ossolinski’s entrance into Rome. There are also interesting Venetian glass articles (drinking glasses) with the Sieniawskis’ coat of arms (Leliwa). Farther on the library hall contains 3,030 works in 4,032 volumes and 544 brochures, among them many rare 18th-century lampoons and political writings, as well as 47 manuscripts, the oldest of which dates back to the 13th century. There are printed works of Haller and Rakowski, the Ostroga Bible, Victoria Deorum (see Maciszewski, “Information on Count S. Potocki’s Library in Raj,” Przeglad bibliograficzny, Warsaw 1882, pages 299-312). The upstairs is arranged differently. Most important is the large drawing-room over the library, with a ceiling painted by Enrico Conti of Florence in 1871 (he also painted the castle chapel) and a fireplace (L. Marconi). There are also many beautiful paintings and a magnificent antique tapestry depicting an Oriental scene. Zacharjewicz built the guest palace around 1882.

[B. R. {Boleslaw Rozwadowski} - Mac. {Dr. Maurycy Maciszewski}]<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O />

Source: Slownik Geograficzny Królestwa Polskiego - Warsaw [1888, vol. 9, pp.492-493] 



Palace, the 15th of August, 2005
Raj kolo Brzezan
On the road to Paradise
Droga do Raju
Detail of the palace
Palac w Raju
In Paradise she works like in hell
Park w Raju
The green corpse
Stare drewo. Raj
The park in the past
Park w Raju kiedys
The Potockis palace now
Palac Potockich w Raju
The church in Rai
Cerkiew w Raju
Linden ally
Lipowa aleja

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