The largest celebrations of Malanka are in Vashkivtsi, a small town in the Chernivtsi region (also known as Bukovyna). The Malanka carnival in Vashkivtsi is a very peculiar local tradition performed here since old times. Even on the way, it is clear that the coming of the local carnival in the Bukovyna villages makes people enthusiastic. “Old women” in bright kerchiefs sweep the thresholds of houses, broad-shouldered “angels” greet drivers, and their wings, made from remnants of curtains, wave on tempo. Musicians accompany “devils” and “bears”, and youth in carnival costumes enact Robin Hood round-ups, stopping cars and fining drivers for soberness.

Why does Vashkivtsi Malanka claim the title of main Ukrainian carnival? Because of… Austrian aristocracy. The former owner of the town, Count Petrino was a great admirer of old times. Thanks to him, Vashkivtsi dove into carnival on St. Basil’s Day. Men vied to create the costume that would impress the count most of all (women were not allowed to change clothes, like today.) The generous master would reward each team of participants with a barrel of beer, and the bearer of the best mask was honored until the next year.

Though the Soviet government tried to destroy the old spirit of the carnival and, in spite of police round-ups, the holiday survived. And Soviet Father Frost and his Snow Maid never were welcome in Vashkivtsi.

If our carnivals were promoted abroad a little bit better, Vashkivtsi would shine as a luxurious diamond among the winter offers of travel agencies. However, even without promotion, many guests come to this Ukrainian carnival: Odesa and Kyiv, Chernivtsi and Lviv always send their “troops” to Malanka.

In old times, the participants of Malanka visited not only the Count’s manor, but also every house. If the participants of Malanka passed any dwelling by, it was a great shame for the owner. And if they entered, it was compulsory to hide! They would turn furniture over, take the gates off, make a mess, let the dog loose, court the daughter, manhandle the master, and the poor man had to remunerate the jokers. The participants of Malanka start walking across Vashkivtsi on midnight on January 13, and the ritual finishes on the next day by swimming in the local Teplytsia River (needless to say: it is freezing cold outside.) However, the participants of the carnival have to bathe. According to folk legends, a devil’s tail can grow after two days of wild fun, so all sins should be washed away by water. They say that nobody gets sick after this icy swimming.

It is worth seeing how the participants of Malanka enact the most painful and relevant issues of life in Ukraine and elsewhere! For instance, in 2002, Vashkivtsi were visited by “ben Ladin”, and in 2006-2007 the streets saw parades of gypsies in hooded carts, noisy “Serduchka”, sultans impressed by Ukrainian beauties, terrorists in camouflage and corrupt judges. People created carnival centuries ago in order to ridicule social disadvantages and get rid of their coldest fears.

The holiday ends with the traditional bathing. Spectators in fur coats and kerchiefs look, charmed, at how the participants rub each others’ backs with icy water. Frost and winter has no power over humour and a thirst for life. Spring will come soon after Malanka. It is not too long a wait.

And meanwhile, go to Vashkivtsi to see an authentic Ukrainian carnival! How will the participants of Malanka amaze us this year? We will see on January 14.